Pronunciation: Trevan

Looking big from Pen yr Ole Wen East Ridge
For details of the November ascent of Tryfan, plus loads more pictures see November 2005 Trip Report
Read the scrambling guide for Tryfan's North Ridge here
For fellwalkers who have based their activities in the Ogwen Valley, Tryfan needs little introduction. It is the most iconic peak in Wales, a rugged spine of bare rock three thousand feet in height that wouldn't look out of place in the Alps. Other mountains have good sides and bad sides ... but not Tryfan. It looks improbably spiky no matter what angle you look at it from, although the East Face is marginally more impressive, and this is the best-known side of the mountain.
The finest and most popular route to the summit is the famous North Ridge. This is a Grade 1 scramble, and on the way up we met people with expressions of horror frozen on their faces, muttering things like "this is bloody hard" and "god help me!". Some people had set forth to tackle the mountain without decent boots, waterproofs, or navigational aids. Worst of all, they seemed to have no idea of what they had committed themselves to. I've met people like this on almost every hill, but there seemed to be an awful lot of them on Tryfan.
Before you climb Tryfan, it is important to realise that it is virtually impossible to reach the top without using your hands. Some sections are outright climbing. Although a path bypasses most of the harder sections of the North Ridge, this is still stretching the definition of the term "walking" and would most likely still qualify as around Grade 0.75 (if such a grade exists). Hillwalkers with a head for heights will do better to stick to the ridge proper, because this is an exciting climb from valley to summit with a real flavour of mountaineering.
The day we chose to climb the mountain turned out to be very hot. By 7 AM the temperature was already pushing 25 degrees, and by midday it was at least 30. The rock was painfully hot to touch. Nevertheless, I'm glad we had dry weather, because the North Ridge in wet and windy conditions would be altogether more difficult. I enjoyed the climb immensely, and when we reached the North Peak I suggested we take a slightly more difficult variation to the main summit, progressing by way of a series of cracks up a wall instead of the usual route up a boulder gully ... which was in any case filled by a party of schoolkids by this point.
Perhaps the hardest point on the ridge is the traverse of the Far North Peak, dropping down into a deep cleft known as the Notch, and a subsequent steep gully leading to the North Peak. (These labels are arbitrary, and what I call the Far North Peak others might refer to as nothing more than an outcrop.) Unfortunately, due to the good weather, the ridge was very busy that day, and we had to queue up before some of the harder sections. The summit itself was packed.
There are many memorable landmarks on the ridge once the initial indistinct section has been passed. First, and perhaps most famously, is the Cannon Stone, a big rocky slab stuck out from the side of the fell at an angle (see photo below). Next is a broad shelf I have come to know as the First Col, which is where we had lunch. This is the point where many people, faced with the prospect of a cliff to climb, give up and turn back. But the most rewarding part of the ridge is ahead, and the next climb up a steep, blocky wall is great fun. There is hardly any sense of exposure, and the holds are plentiful and secure.
Things keep getting better until the summit is reached. The top point is surmounted by a pair of monoliths, Adam and Eve, and it is traditional to leap between the two and thus gain the "Freedom of Tryfan". I didn't try it. Not with all those people watching!
Upon descending the easier (but still challenging) South Ridge, many people continue up Bristly Ridge to Glyder Fach. But, with the temperature still on the rise, we descended to Llyn Bochlwyd as quickly as possible, arriving at Idwal Cottage an hour or so later in dire need of refreshment. I drank two bottles of Lucozade and devoured a Calippo ice lolly while sitting in the shade of the wall, surrounded by many other tired and hot walkers.
The ascent of Tryfan's North Ridge is one of the most enjoyable fellwalks I've ever done, and certainly the most technical. The mountain itself is a joint-favourite with Great Gable. The only reason I can't quite bring myself to put it above Gable is because, for all Tryfan's stature and variety, the view can't quite match the epic panorama from Gable's summit. But that's a minor point. For many, Tryfan is their favourite hill, and it is certainly one of the finest mountains in North Wales. Put it on your "must-do" list now!
 The East Face |
 The classic Tryfan view |
 Me blancing on the Cannon |
 Looking back to the Far North Peak |
 Looking doooown the cliff |
 From the A5 |
 From Llyn y Caseg-fraith |
 From the Pen yr Ole Wen plateau |